Contact Glendoick

Contact Garden Centre

We are OPEN!

9am to 5pm seven days a week

Phone: 01738 860260
Email gardencentre@glendoick.com

Link to bus timetable X7, Perth, Glendoick, Dundee


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The Cafe is OPEN from Wed 15th July 2020 from 9.30am to 4pm Last orders for hot food 3pm, Coffee & Cake 3.30pm

Phone: 01738 860265
Email cafemanager@glendoick.com

 

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Glendoick Garden Centre, Glencarse, Perth, PH2 7NS


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Everything you need in the garden....

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Everything for the gardener

  • Peats and Composts: Levington, Miracle Gro, Chipped bark, ericaceous compost, top soil, John Innes and Lots more.

  • Pots from Woodlodge, Apter, Elho, Kaemingk and lots more

  • Trellis, Plant supports, canes, netting and frost protection.

  • Fertilisers including our own specially formulated Rhododendron Food.

  • Weedkillers and Pest control, traditional and organic.

  • Seeds from Johnsons


Bulbs from Taylors

In Autumn, from August Onwards, Spring flowering bulbs come into stock. 

Colchicum (autumn crocus), Crocus, Snowdrops and aconites should be planted as early as possible as they start growing in Autumn and flower in winter. Prepared Hyacinths should be planted by the end of September to get flowers around Christmas and New Year.

Tulips and Daffodils are best planted in October and even November. They can be kept in a cool dry place till you are ready to plant. Glendoick sell loose daffs and tulips so you can see and feel the quality. You can also mix as many varieties as you like in a bag.

In February summer flowering bulbs come in. Some of these are not hardy so dont plant them too early and make sure they have a mulch on top of them if you are in a cold inland garden. Lillies are very tough and you dont need to worry about them.

  • Dahlias
  • Gladioli
  • Begonia
  • Crocosmia
  • Lillies

 


Grow your Own

  • Seed trays, propagators, and accessories
  • Grow your Own equipment, seeds, plants and tools.
  • Vegetable plants. We dont stock these before mid April as it is too cold to plant them out. Beans are the most tender and need to be protected until the end of May, even later inland and high up. 
  • Seeds are in stock year round but it is best to buy them in winter and spring. You can keep seeds for several years in a dry airtight container. You can freeze them to keep them viable for longer

Tools and Watering

  • Garden Tools: spades, forks, rakes, hoes and lots more
  • Lawn mowers, strimmers and other garden equipment.
  • Watering systems, hoses, accessories from Gardena. 

Gardena and Hoselock fittings are compatible and can be freely mixed and matched.

Feeding your plants

  • Compound fertilizers have a mixture of the three most important major feed elements; nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Examples include Growmore and Miracle Gro.
  • Straights are single substance fertilizers such as Sulphate of iron, Sulphate of Ammonia or Epsom Salts. 
  • Organic Fertilisers include Fish, Blood & Bone, Bone Meal and seaweed based liquid feeds.
  • Controlled release fertilizers are useful for containers, pots and hanging baskets as they release the fertilizer for 3-6 months 
  • Granular feeds are best for feeding existing plants in the garden: roses, shrubs, rhododendrons etc
  • Liquid feeds such as Miracle Gro are ideal for containers and young plants.
  • Levington's Tomorite is high in potassium and many gardeners use it on all fruit and most vegetable crops. 
  • Glendoick's own brand of rhododendron feed in a tub is ideal for all acid loving plants.

Pests and Disease

Most plants can suffer from pests and diseases from time to time. Mild attacks can just be ignored.

Stress: too much moisture, drought, or starvation can make plants more susceptible to problems. To much fertiliser can produce soft, leafy growth that is more prone to attack for example.

The most common pests:

Slugs

Aphids and whitefly (attack a wide range of crops.)

Rabbits, Deer and Other Mammals

With very good reason, Scottish gardeners everywhere bemoan the attentions of rabbit and deer, two out-of-control pests. You can be as sentimental as you like about fluffy bunnies, but they can destroy your vegetable patch. You need to decide which of the two you are more attached to as co-existence is not an option. Fluffy bunny websites tell you that you can keep rabbits off with chilli powder and other home-made remedies. Don’t believe a word of it. One useful rabbit repelling product is a calcium solution marketed as Grazers which you can paint on foliage. The vegetables taste horrible for rabbits, pigeons and deer but apparently humans don’t notice so you can spray right up to harvesting.

For long term peace of mind, bite the bullet and agree that rabbits need to be fenced out or killed. Fences need to be part buried in the ground 20-30cm and even then rabbits may dig underneath. For rabbits the fence needs to have a mesh of 2.5cm diameter and a height of 1m-1.2m. Deer are most likely to damage plants in winter, when they are most hungry.  Barking of fruit trees can be fatal so individual tree guards are a good precaution. Roe deer can leap a 2m high fence, so it is an expensive business keeping them out. Grey squirrels in urban gardens, rats, mice and voles can also be a serious problem when they discover and eat your growing or stored crops before you do. Mice are particularly fond of eating newly planted seeds such as peas and beans. 

Pigeons

Control varies from problem to problem, but identifying a problem quickly and dealing with it immediately will prevent the problem getting out of control. Crop rotation, for instance, helps prevent the build-up of soil-borne pests and diseases.

Covering plants with horticultural fleece (before the pests attack) will prevent some insect pests and birds reaching the plants. It's important to ensure the edges of the fleece are buried in the soil to prevent access and that the fleece is loosely held over the plants so that it can move with them as they grow. This is how many growers produce carrot fly-free carrots and cabbage rootfly-free brassicas.

In extreme case you may want to resort to using a pesticide. If you don't like using chemicals organic treatments are available.

In all cases, prevention is better than cure.

Pots and Containers

Pets and Birdcare

Weeds and Weedkillers  

 (From Fruit and Vegetables in Scotland)

Prevention is better than cure as 1m2 of ground can contain up to 100,000 weed seeds. Perennial weeds such as ground elder, bindweed and brambles are a nightmare to remove in a plot full of plants, so it is far better to get rid of them before you start. The key is to kill or dig out the roots. If you don’t, they’ll simply re-sprout. Organic gardeners use old carpets and black polythene to cover weedy beds for long periods to starve perennial weeds of light and water. Sadly the worst perennial weeds can survive such treatment. Most chemical weedkillers are not longer available to amateur gardeners leaving roundup/glyphosate as the main weapon against perennial weeds. It  only works when plants are in active growth, so apply from March/April-October. It is neutralised in the soil soon after it is applied so you can safely sow as soon as the weeds have died back and you have removed them. You can use it amongst existing plants but make sure you keep the spray off plants you want to keep. Cover them to be on the safe side. You may need to spray two or three times to get rid of the deepest rooted and most persistent weeds such as ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria), creeping buttercup (Ranunculus repens) and creeping thistle, which can spread underground. Painting glyphosate gell (Roundup) onto foliage is excellent for brambles and other weeds amongst plants you wish to keep. Mare’s tail (Esquisiteum) can survive almost anything, and is perhaps the hardest weed of all to get rid of. It needs to be smashed and painted several times with neat glyophosate and even then it may bounce back. It can break concrete.

Roundup gel is really useful for killing weeds like brambles which are established in a border with plants you want to keep. Just dab the gel on the plants you want to kill.

Annual weeds are easy to hoe or pull out but they can come up in their thousands so you have to catch them before they bloom. I am amazed to see allotment holders tolerating abandoned weed-filled plots with weed seeds blowing all over the place. Some of our worst weeds include thistles, bittercress, groundsel and chickweed, all of which flower and seed fast. Don’t let this happen!

One you have a clean bed and are sowing and planting, a hoe is invaluable. Best used in dry weather. Using it well takes a fair bit of practice - don’t drag too much soil off and don’t slice up your delicate young produce. Mulching and growing green manures (see p. **) are other useful ways of reducing patches of bare earth and therefore keeping weeds to a minimum.

EIQ listed below    Higher numbers are potentially more harmful to the environment, lower numbers are the safest.

Weedkillers

 

Used to control

Glyphosate(Roundup) (EIQ 15.3)

Non organic

Annual and perennial weeds. Systemic, killing anything in active growth which it touches. Neutralises in the soil. Rain fast in a few hours

Diquat (Weedol)

(EIQ  39)

Non organic

Grasses and annual weeds. Can be used between vegetable rows and for cleaning a bed before sowing. You can sow as soon as weeds die back. Protect anything you wish to keep. Rain fast in 15 minutes.

Acetic acid (vinegar) (EIQ 5-10)

organic

Annual weeds, but tend not to kill roots. Household vinegar tends to be too dilute. You need 15-25% acetic acid solution for best results.

Fatty Acids/Pelargonic acid(EIQ 5-10)

organic

Annual weeds. Very safe to use.